Aram’s trip to Armenia January-February 2021

First, allow me to post a picture of a street I mentioned yesterday, for fun (pardon the bit of narcissism!) OK. Covid in Armenia: after being here for a few weeks, allow me to post some slightly (hopefully) more enlightened thoughts than when I first arrived. As I have mentioned, Armenia's Covid rates are pretty low right now, compared to Canada. Yesterday there were 173 cases and 2 deaths in Armenia. Canada's was 4,255 cases and 141 deaths. With about 13-14 times more population, the adjusted rates (14x) would be 2422 cases and 28 deaths, so about half the cases, but 5 times fewer deaths. Armenia has been in a downward trend for a while now, whereas Canada has JUST started its downward trend. I'm sure many of us have seen examples of bell curves with and without social distancing, but in case you haven't: So, the first bell curve shows that the health care system cannot reach everyone, and many more may die, as I believe was the case in Armenia around September-Novemb

Pardon the dark thoughts, it is a dark day for me today. I mean, the saying comes to mind because after all, even though I am having trouble with the inequities of life in general, and here in particular, it is humbling to think we will all die in the end: perhaps those believing in an afterlife think there are differences, I don't. I remember saying this a few times while in Yeghegnadzor to people I was speaking to about how unfair it is that some of us are "born wealthy" compared to so many in the rest of the world, that in the end we are all the same. I thought I was being empathetic: but maybe it was more to appease myself, now that I think of it. It's a dark day for many reasons, including literally so. It has been cloudy every day I have been in Yerevan. After being in sunny (for the most part) Yeghegnadzor, while driving here via the winding roads back into the valley, I saw Ararat and Masis towering over a hazy cloudy mass below (which I never got to photograp

As had been suggested to me, today I walked the streets in Yerevan and have stopped and worked and people-watched at a few cafés to take in the sights and sounds and people. I even saw an anti-government protest in Republic Square (more on that later, perhaps). The richer half, the ones who can afford the $3 cappuccino on offer, live here: lots of repats (Armenian immigrants born in Western countries, and those who left for the US and Russia who have returned), and likely also the (is it fair to say, corrupt?) wealthy, who have lived off the spoils of the average citizen, for the most part. Probably anyhow, it's what I hear, it's kind of hard to see and understand when I don't live here. It's basically a big city here, like any other, except the people all kind of look like me. It is of course a bit empty: it's cold, it's the middle of winter, Covid and a war devastated the country... but there is a small touristic vibe, and I'm pretty sure spring and the av

Էրեբունի-Երևան Երևան դարձած իմ Էրեբունի, Դու մեր նոր Դվին, մեր նոր Անի: Մեր փոքրիկ հողի դու մեծ երազանք, Մեր դարե կարոտ, մեր քարե նազանք: Երևան դարձա՜ծ իմ Էրեբունի, Դարեր ես անցել, բայց մնացել ես պատանի: Քո Մասիս հորով, քո Արաքս մորով, Մեծանաս դարով, Երևա՜ն: ...                հեղ:           Պարույր Սևակ                երաժշ.:    Էտկար Յովհաննիսեանի: Ode to the  Erebuni fortress ,  which became the capital  Yerevan ... By now, surely considered a corny old song, here in Armenia; and a song for children's choirs, in the Diaspora at any rate. But it comes to mind, as it is probably the only Armenian song I know with the name of the capital in the lyrics. Actually, I just thought of another one ("Pretty girl from Yerevan"): Երևանի սիրուն աղջիկ                (Lyrics by Vladimir Harutyunyan; music by Arno Babajanyan) Here's another jazzier version . Unlike in Yeghegnadzor, I have no set plans or itinerary here, other than meeting with political figures, NGOs, and friends.

Yesterday, friends from Yerevan came over for a visit. It was interesting to speak to them. It was also interesting to eat croissants and baguettes that they brought, as I have only been eating local breads, cheeses, greens, meats, etc. Meeting them offered me a taste of what to expect in cosmopolitain Yerevan. I have not written for several days now because I was busy, but I have a moment now and wanted to write a brief post. I have a lot to say and information to give, several pictures to post, and a lot of reflections to share... I will surely do so in the coming days. I don't expect my days in Yerevan to be as full as they are now. Or perhaps they will be: I really don't know what to expect. Speaking to Raffi Niziblian and Lara Aharonian, my guests at the Terjanian residence, yesterday and today offered me a more interesting, layered, complex, educated and experienced view of the country. They are Canadians who have lived in Հայաստան for nearly 18 years now, and two of thei

 It is Saturday night here. I am tired again, but I wanted to add a brief post. Yesterday I visited other soldiers' families, so, 18 in all in 2 days (and another emotional day). I then had a lovely supper with Syunik staffer Anna and her husband Tilo, who had driven me around a week prior, as well as Anna's brother Davit and his wife (whose name escapes me at the moment). Davit is an Armenian folk dancer. As I understand it, Covid-19 shut down the place where he teaches in Yeghegnadzor. Which is not the case in other provinces, apparently. He told me they might reopen in early February. I will write a lot more about all of this when I have some free time, and I have pictures to post as well. As it's the weekend and the NGO is closed, today I enjoyed the sights somewhat, making it to Lake Sevan and all the way to Hayravank , a 9th-12th century monastery, over a mountain pass that was pretty icy but passable. At one point in the mountain heights, just past a very interesting

 Today was an emotional day. I visited a host of families in surrounding regions, all very close to the border with Nakhichevan, who had a father, son, brother and even grandfather who either died during the recent war, or are missing. Given the relatively limited funds on offer, I asked Syunik NGO how we could help those most in need in the region. As such, Syunik NGO created a list of 50 names and families from this province, families of the missing or dead with children, who were considered most in need. How cruel to need to pick and choose who to support... Each will receive 50,000AMD, about $125 Canadian, from this fund: the hope is that this would provide each family with about a month's worth of goods. These families will eventually receive funds from the Armenian government as well, but the bureaucracy takes time to reach everyone in a timely manner. Though mostly symbolic, I hope that my mere presence, hearing their stories and explaining that Diasporan Armenians care abou

 I can finally tell you, dear readers, where donations offered by many of you will be going. As of tomorrow, I will be meeting with and disbursing funds for families who lost someone in the recent war. Although it is not a huge sum, I think the money provided to each of 50 families identified by Syunik NGO from Vayots Dzor, chosen not only because they lost a loved one, but also because the family has kids and thus it will be difficult to make ends meet as a family, will allow these families to purchase needed goods for about a month. And, since emergency funds have not yet made their way to them from the federal government (but it is forthcoming), this aid is really timely. So, this is where about half the money amassed for this mission will be going. Again, a huge thanks to all who donated! I will write more soon. I recently returned home from the Old Bridge winery, a lovely establishment with good food and great wine. I tried four wines, and their 2015 Old Bridge Red was definitely

 I am a bit tired. I had been invited to a restaurant ( Lchak/Լճակ ) by Nareg who is a representative for Armenia for Mission East , an international relief and development organisation working in crisis-affected countries in the former Soviet Union, the Middle East and Asia that delivers emergency relief during disasters as well as long-term development assistance. I met him yesterday at Syunik NGO : Mission East is providing war refugees here with care packages, including information relating to Covid awareness. He was speaking Eastern Armenian but I detected a Western accent, so I asked him about it and we chatted for a while, and exchanged phone numbers. I ate a lot... and it was delicious! I spent the last two days organising my week with Syunik NGO representatives, especially Naira Harutyunyan, the organisation's manager of community and youth projects. Yesterday, I was taken to a "demonstration orchard", showcasing the region's improved horticultural techniques

Dora Sakayan  is an impressive figure. Author of many, many books, linguistics expert, McGill University Professor. Imagine my surprise when I found out that, for her upcoming 90th birthday, in lieu of gifts, she requested that people donate to the Atken Armenian Foundation instead, in support of this mission!!! What a wonderful idea: I am very touched and honoured by her support. Here is the email she shared with her entourage: 

 Monday "morning", nearly 12:30, and I actually started working today: i.e., I organized my day today more than I have of late. I have been sleeping better and feel more or less normal. Tomorrow will be a week since I first arrived here. I am watching out for Covid symptoms: given my experience with Air Covid France and knowing that symptoms usually appear about a week in. I have also eaten at people's houses and have been driven here and there, and, even though many wear masks when close to me (at least, in cars), we are all still in confined spaces, and I am a bit weary. Every so often I am smelling things to make sure I haven't lost my sense of smell :-) That said, I am less worried about Covid than I was when I first arrived. Back in Canada, current rates are spiking and people are very worried. That was the case here a few months ago here, but now the bell curves I have seen on this website suggests fewer people are getting it here per capita than in Canada, wh

                        Two views of Ararat, as seen from the backyard (the white peak in the middle in both) Morning at the Terjanian's house, front view. Anyone considering a future visit to Armenia must consider staying in one of their B&B network run homes: Click here for their B&B network , it's definitely worth a stay here Plenty of these beautiful birds around,  someone told me it is a Gakav (partridge), but I doubt it. The long tails while in flight are impressive