Walking Yerevan, and some reflections

As had been suggested to me, today I walked the streets in Yerevan and have stopped and worked and people-watched at a few cafés to take in the sights and sounds and people. I even saw an anti-government protest in Republic Square (more on that later, perhaps). The richer half, the ones who can afford the $3 cappuccino on offer, live here: lots of repats (Armenian immigrants born in Western countries, and those who left for the US and Russia who have returned), and likely also the (is it fair to say, corrupt?) wealthy, who have lived off the spoils of the average citizen, for the most part. Probably anyhow, it's what I hear, it's kind of hard to see and understand when I don't live here. It's basically a big city here, like any other, except the people all kind of look like me.

It is of course a bit empty: it's cold, it's the middle of winter, Covid and a war devastated the country... but there is a small touristic vibe, and I'm pretty sure spring and the availability of a vaccine will allow Armenia to flourish again this year, after a year-long lull that devastated the country, as it seemingly was just finding it's legs.

Skating rink near the Opera:
from the looks of it, not many people know
how to skate (said the Canadian...)

So, for at least a day, likely more, I don't want to see this country as a charity case, which I wish it wasn't (and perhaps it's fair to say that it isn't, certainly not central Yerevan, but also the country as a whole: so many are proud and very հիւրասէր/hospitable), and I have switched my mindset. This was suggested to me by Raffi N. and Sara A.: I should enjoy all that is on offer. And they are right, I should, and I will!

But that is not the main reason why I came to Armenia: sure it's better for people like me to see this place as a liveable hub, sure they could use people from abroad settling here... which is not anywhere in my plans, now or in the future. But I get why it's sought, and it can be tempting while here for someone who feels Armenian and born elsewhere to consider moving here and helping in some way to make the country greater, this landlocked country that could sorely need it. I doubt one could have such a mindset without being a strong patriot, or being an activist in some way. I am neither, really. Canada is my home, I would find it hard to live here: no matter how Armenian I may feel, I feel more Canadian. And from what I understand, mine is a healthy way of seeing the country, given that I live in the Diaspora: so many like me have very strong opinions about how Armenia SHOULD be, or how they picture it anyhow. As Raffi Elliott told me yesterday, they have a vision that gels with a 2 week visit here every 2 years... I don't live here. I don't vote here. Sure I have opinions about the place, but for the most part I defer to the citizens. It is important to care: but also, I submit, it is important to listen.

My meeting with Sara Anjargolian yesterday was informal, I asked her about herself and told her about me, but it was nevertheless very informative and interesting. She is a UK born and US educated person who, though never satisfied, seems to get a lot done. I am so glad I met her, she gave me some ideas of what to do while here, and it was a very friendly visit. If brief: she was busy...

I have avoided being political, both in this blog and elsewhere (and anyhow, I knew next to nothing about Armenian politics before coming here, and since being here, have barely skimmed the surface). But I should say that the abrupt end to the September-November 2020 war brought out a host of discontented political parties and individuals, both from here and abroad, who would like to take down the Prime Minister, Nikol Pashinyan, who came to power following the 2018 Velvet Revolution. The signing of the November 9, 2020 ceasefire agreement was seen by some (perhaps by many) as a "treacherous" act. The word դաւաճան (traitor, plotter) is liberally bandied about. Those who are interested in these issues can read the wikipedia links I have included here, I will not comment on issues I know next to nothing about. But I certainly have a lot of opinions about all of this, which I will keep to myself, at least for now.

Anyhow, I heard there would be a protest today in Republic Square, so I decided to see what it was all about. I should say that it is a holiday today, although I can’t say the streets were bustling (addendum, tourist alert: "holiday" means people here spend it with their families, not touring central Yerevan, Aram!) Fortunately I saw this flyer posted on a lamppost and knew what time it would be held:

"Stop Turk Nikol". A rather nasty poster.
Interestingly, that caption is only in English

I attended what I think was the last bit of the protest, snapping some pictures and walking through the few hundred people gathered there. I was struck by the fact that they were mostly male, mostly oldish, and to my eye, seemed rather disinterested in being there. There were people on a raised platform speaking into mikes, I did not pay much attention to what was being said. The last thing I heard however was a person representing the church who prayed the Armenian Հայր մեր/Our Father, exhorting the listless crowd to participate (I didn't see any do so). I guess the church is allied with the protest movement, at least that's what it felt like.

I'd say a few hundred were gathered, and there was quite a large police presence, off to the side

The person at the mike was saying a prayer

So: that's my little foray into politics. I think it's enough.

I also snapped a few other pictures: the opera, and my hero Gomitas' sculpture in a park out front

Yerevan Opera Theatre, with a statue of the great Aram Khachaturian in the forefront

Statue of Gomitas. Here is a useful list of the many many statues in Yerevan

I am meeting one-time fellow Montrealer, the person who suggested to my friend Shant and I to join the Canadian reserve forces in Montreal back in 1989, the Black Watch. Jirair moved here nearly 30 years ago, and I look forward to hearing his perspective on all he has lived since then.

Tomorrow I will see Tilo from Yeghegnadzor who will be in town; otherwise I have arranged no plans or meetings for now, although I probably should, it's the weekend after that... we'll see how the day goes.